Hyperlocal Tokyo

I stumbled upon this place after being turned away from the first restaurant I tried. I thought it looked like the kind of place Yoshida Riu would visit, and sure enough, he had already been here. It's not the kind of place I'd usually choose if I was dining alone, but it turned out to be quite enjoyable. They have a wide selection of sake. It's counter seating only, and it was packed on a weekend evening. The name of the restaurant is 'Yako Ressha' (Night Train), so I expected to hear enka music, but surprisingly, they were playing Western rock. The age range of the customers was surprisingly young, and the staff were dressed in work clothes, with hand towels and silver accessories, giving off a band-like vibe. The contrast was really cool. Every time I saw the curtain, I couldn't help but hear the song 'Ueno-hatsu no Yako Ressha, orita toki kara' (From the time I got off the night train from Ueno) playing endlessly in my head. It was a nostalgic place.

A while back, I visited a dimly lit establishment nestled in a bustling street along the JR elevated tracks between Ueno and Okachimachi. This place, with its traditional charm, was originally intended for travelers using the overnight trains departing from Ueno Station. Now, under new ownership, the shop continues to operate as a sake bar, retaining its original name. The noren (curtain) proudly displays the words 'Junmai-shu' (pure rice sake) instead of just 'Sake,' which is a nice touch. The bar is counter-only, with seating for about 10 people, and an additional 4 seats at a separate counter near the entrance. The atmosphere is fantastic, creating a stark contrast to the noisy street outside. I was surprised to find that they play Western music inside, though! I wondered if the sake selection was limited to what was listed on the menu, which seemed to be around 20 varieties. While there were definitely pure rice sakes, it felt like there were more Junmai Ginjo (sakes with a higher polishing ratio) on offer. To start, I ordered the 'Dewazakura' Ikko (Hon-Nama) Tokubetsu Junmai (800 yen excluding tax) from Dewazakura Shuzo in Yamagata Prefecture. Wow, they poured a generous amount! It was smooth and refreshing, with a subtle sweetness from the rice. Very easy to drink. The otsumami (appetizer) was a creamy potato salad (450 yen excluding tax). For my first dish, I chose the smoked mackerel (600 yen excluding tax). It was thick, moist, and delicious. The smoky flavor was subtle at first, then blossomed in my mouth with a full-bodied aroma. Next, I tried the 'Kassen' Junmai (800 yen excluding tax) from Kassen Shuzo in Fukushima Prefecture. Despite being a Junmai, it had a fruity aroma reminiscent of Ginjo, making it very refreshing. I also ordered the sake-marinated cod roe with Japanese ginger (600 yen excluding tax). It was a simple dish with plenty of ginger topped with cod roe, a perfect pairing for sake. The ginger was excellent! I couldn't resist another drink. I went for the 'Hanagaki' Junmai Komeshizuku (900 yen excluding tax) from Nanbu Shuzojo in Ono, Fukui Prefecture. It was light but had a nutty aroma and a satisfyingly full-bodied flavor. Very nice. I decided to try something warm, so I ordered the yudofu (800 yen excluding tax). It might seem a bit pricey for yudofu, but it comes in a small pot. The tofu was served with napa cabbage, mizuna, and shimeji mushrooms, all simmered in a tangy citrus ponzu sauce. It was very warming. And guess what? This pot actually contains fugu (pufferfish)! I expected the clientele to be older based on the atmosphere, but there were a lot of young people there. It's great to see more young people enjoying sake. I'll definitely be back for more sake adventures. If you're interested, I highly recommend checking it out.

I went there after getting a recommendation. For being in Ueno, the prices were a bit high. And the sake selection wasn't that great. I didn't find anything I wanted to drink, so I just ended up smiling wryly.

Right after entering Ameya-Yokocho from Ueno Station! It's a narrow shop that you might miss if you're not careful. Lucky if you find it. You should definitely try their "Karomi" sake, which you can only drink here. At the counter, you can become friends with the person next to you by talking about sake (laughs). The smoked mackerel is super delicious. I love how open and friendly the atmosphere is, where you can ask the owner for recommended snacks or hear about what the person next to you is eating.