Hyperlocal Tokyo

To be honest, I initially underestimated "Fukagawa-meshi." But after actually trying it here, my opinion changed. It's no wonder this is a long-established restaurant that has been passed down through generations. The rice served in a hinoki (cypress) box was packed with large clams, and the clams themselves were incredibly flavorful. The arajiru (fish soup) had large, plentiful pieces of fish and a delicious broth. I felt like I got more than my money's worth with this meal.

After enjoying an orchestra performance at the Edo River Comprehensive Cultural Center, I had an early dinner. I was craving Fukagawa-meshi, so I parked nearby and waited for the restaurant to open. I wanted to order a lot of things, but I settled for a set menu and ended up feeling very full.

I learned the difference between "Fukagawa Meshi" and "Fukagawa Donburi" at this restaurant. The rice cooked with clams and other ingredients was delicious. The tables are narrow, and the seating is on the floor with cushions, so it can get a bit tiring for long periods.

Tokyo Stroll: Kiyosumi Shirakawa First up, lunch! Established in 1924, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year (2024), I visited Kappou Miya-ko for their signature Fukagawa-meshi. They open at 11:30 AM. I arrived about 10 minutes early and there were already two groups ahead of me. It was a Saturday, so arriving just before opening seems to be the best strategy. The flavor was robust, allowing you to savor the clams until the very last bite. The pickled vegetables were also delicious, and the dishes were beautifully presented. The atmosphere of the restaurant itself exuded history. Truly a testament to its 100 years of legacy. You take off your shoes at the entrance. There seems to be a second floor, but the first floor is all tatami seating. I felt it might be difficult for people with mobility issues to access. The food, atmosphere, and service were all excellent. It was a wonderful establishment.

Miyaco, a long-established restaurant specializing in Fukagawa-meshi, was founded in the Taisho era. I recently started visiting the Cat Medical Center nearby, so I thought I'd drop by Miyaco for a change. I went on a Saturday. It was either good luck or bad luck, but it was a bitterly cold day with snow falling in the city center. I walked to the restaurant, shivering under my umbrella, and as expected, we were the only customers... Thankfully, the interior was somewhat heated, making it much warmer than outside. However, the restaurant is spacious, with no threshold between the entrance and the dining area, so the heat quickly escapes. So, my first order was a cup of hot sake. The reason is that it was so cold that even if I ordered two cups, they would quickly cool down. For food, we ordered the following four items: Fukagawa-meshi set: ¥1,980 Fukagawa-meshi + sashimi set: ¥2,970 Clam tempura: ¥1,980 Kanto-style thick omelet: ¥770 The prices had gone up considerably since my last visit. As we sipped our sake, a few customers came in. However, I think there were only two groups that day, including us. In this cold weather, not many people would go out of their way to visit. Fukagawa-meshi comes in two styles: seiro (steamed) and ojiya (porridge). This restaurant serves the seiro style, which I prefer. The amount of rice in the wooden box is about one and a half rice bowls, and it comes with two small side dishes. The clam tempura we ordered separately was quite large, just right for two people. When I ordered another cup of sake, we were lucky enough to witness the "Furedaiko" performance. This is a traditional event that takes place before the January Grand Sumo Tournament, where the wrestlers' bouts are announced in front of the shops. It was a very rare and valuable experience. Truly, a restaurant with a history of nearly 100 years. I hope it continues for another 100 years.